The printing table came unglued!

[SFoskett]

While printing today the table came loose or unglued from the three-legged base. It shifted a good 1.5 inches off to one side, ruining the print of course but also rendering the Zeus unusable. I pried the metal base off the glass plate and re-centered it using the scanning target (very handy!) after applying some glue. I hope it holds. But this is pretty bad.

I did nothing special to the table to make this happen. Just regular printing. I'm really not sure how this happened since I wasn't in the room at the time.

Any suggestions?

[3Drene]

Hey,

I've got the same problem .
What kind of glue do you use?

Best, René

[rdd0101]

Hi,

The 3 pins on the back of the turntable are not centered. How to solve this ? Because of this, I cannot have a proper 3D Print or 3D Scan

Please send a fix asap

Cheers
Rushabh

[SFoskett]

Is there any response here from AIO Robotics? It seems a common issue, at least among us here on the forum. What are you going to do about it?

[ecloud]

This happened to me too, pretty early.  I soaked the table in water to dissolve the Uhu because of a stuck part, and it turns out the adhesive holding the base is also water-soluble.  They need to switch to gluing it with epoxy or something like that.  I just put mine back together without changing the adhesive, and measured carefully to get it centered.  The adhesive is OK as long as I keep it dry and don't print anything so big that it starts to experience too large forces from the side as the print head pushes against previous layers.  And I got an extra turntable just in case.

[ecloud]

It happened again.  I see that when printing overhangs, the plastic tends to curl upwards on the edge, so if the print head comes back the opposite direction (against the curled-up edge instead of outwards from the center of the part), it will tend to knock something loose: either the part, or the turntable.  And it seems that it is more likely to happen in one direction than the other; similarly if the part has symmetric overhangs, they will print smoother on one side than the other.

This could probably be helped by a slicer being aware of overhangs and trying to print the perimeters in a direction that goes from an area that has no overhang towards the area of maximum overhang, on both sides.  Maybe even change the Z axis a little while traveling back to a "safe" area before extruding outwards to the edge again.  I have not read anywhere that any slicer has done that, but probably somebody else had the idea by now.

[ecloud]

I finally fixed this by epoxying the metal 3-legged adapter to the glass.

So, next time it pops off:

• scrape off the adhesive sheet with a thin, sharp putty knife
• soak it in paint thinner (or any other petroleum-based solvent) for a couple of minutes
• scrape some more, and get the rest off with a paper towel
• wash in soapy water to get rid of the petroleum residue
• the glass plate is 9 inches and the metal plate is 3, so get a ruler and a marker, and make marks 3 inches in from the perimeter of the bottom side of the glass, all the way around
• mix up epoxy on the metal plate
• slap it onto the bottom of the glass, center it visually
• wipe off any excess that oozes out, with a paper towel
• measure the distance from the edges again to be sure that it's precisely centered
• hold it in place with masking tape until the glue hardens

[syer1]

Im not sure why this seems to be a common problem but i for one wash the whole plate every now and then to get rid of the excess glue build up and have had no issues. Is there any common denominators? Is there sudden temp drops similar to when you have really hot glass and then pour cold liquid into it? I was going to suggest the expoxy solution as well. Please keep the rest of us updated.